Swaziland - Idyllic Rural Africa

Colourful Swazi candles are expertly sculpted into animal shapes

By Carrie Hampton

Travel with Carrie Hampton to Swaziland where she meets a woman village chief and finds the country rich in culture and lots of things to do.

The Kingdom of Swaziland is so alive with culture yet so relaxed in an endearingly lazy way. It has all the makings of idyllic rural Africa with friendly people, picturesque villages, colourful crafts and everything or nothing to do.

Swazi Trails took over my touring agenda and their cultural day-trip visited a traditional beehive village, which unusually had a woman Chief. On her command all the children pounded out a rhythm with jangling ankles and waving wands then danced and sang with perfect co-ordination and harmony, most giggled as I clumsily attempted to join them.

All The King's Children

The Swazi's hold much respect for the ageing mother and senior wife and it is the Queen Mother or Ndlovukazi/She-Elephant that rules the country jointly with the King. Mswati III ascended the throne in 1986 on the death of his father, King Sobhuza II, the world's longest reigning Monarch. It is said he fathered more than 500 children during his 65 year reign. King Mswati III will get a chance to add to his 8 or 9 wives at the next Umhlanga (Reed) Dance in August when all the young virgins perform in front of the She-Elephant. From amongst these nubile girls the King chooses his next wife by a mere touch of his hand - an honour she cannot refuse. The awaiting boys then get a chance to flirt with their sweethearts and propose their love .

Neon & Nakedness

The royal Ezulwini Valley is where most monuments, museums, crafts and culture is to be found and three Sun International's hotels including the classic and stylish Royal Swazi Sun. It oozes tranquility and your relaxation can be further enhanced under the soothing hands of a masseuse at the seductive new Spa. A more active option is on the 18 hole championship golf course but it was the Hockneyesque pool that tempted me.

The lure of winning against the odds brings the Swazi Sun and the Piggs Peak Casinos to life in the evenings, but for a most enlightening soiree pop in to the 'Why Not' Disco at the Happy Valley Hotel for some unexpected neon and nakedness.

White Water Rafting

For the action adventurer is the Grade IV white water rafting on the Great Usutu River or some downhill racing on mountain bikes in the scenic highveld. Swaziland has big game too with endangered black rhino finding safe refuge and the opportunity to horse ride, bicycle or take guided walks amongst the big 5 game in the 3 main reserves of Mlilwane, Hlane and Mkhaya.


Colourful Swazi candles are expertly sculpted into animal shapes
Page: 2
You cannot leave Swaziland without visiting, and most likely buying, some of the most exquisite crafts in Africa. Colourful Swazi candles are expertly sculpted into animal shapes and veneered with animal print design which become illuminated from w ...